Anna Sui

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Anna Sui
Annasuioffice.jpg
Anna Sui at her New York City office
Born (1964-08-04) August 4, 1964 (age 60)
Detroit, Michigan
Residence New York City
Nationality American
Education Parsons The New School for Design
Occupation Fashion designer
Awards CDFA Perry Ellis Award
Time Magazine - Top 5 Fashion Icons of the Decade[1]
CFDA Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award[2]
Bravo A-List Award
Classic Icon of Fashion and Design
Website http://www.annasui.com/en/#/home
Labels Anna Sui
Dolly Girl by Anna Sui
Anna Sui Mini
Anna Sui
Chinese name
Traditional Chinese 蕭志美
Simplified Chinese 萧志美
Japanese name
Kanji アナスイ
Kana アナスイ

Anna Sui (tc: 蕭志美, sc: 萧志美, pinyin: Xiāo Zhìměi, jp: アナスイ) (born August 4, 1964)[3][4] is an American fashion designer. She was named one of the Top 5 Fashion Icons of the Decade [5] and in 2009 earned the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), joining the ranks of Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and Diane von Furstenberg.[6] Her brand categories include several Fashion lines, Footwear, Cosmetics, Fragrance, Eyewear, Jewelry, Accessories, as well as a Gifts line. Anna Sui products are sold through her free-standing stores and distributors around the world in over 50 countries. In 2006, Fortune estimated the collective value of Sui's fashion empire at over $400 million.[7]

Early life and family origins

Sui was born on August 4, 1964, in Detroit, Michigan, to French-educated Chinese emigrants, Paul Sui (zh: 蕭惠光, pinyin: Xiāo Huì Guāng) and Grace Sui Fang (zh: 方光琪, pinyin: Fāng Guāng Qí) who met while studying at the Sorbonne in Paris where Sui's father was studying engineering and her mother, painting. Her paternal grandparents were Xiao Yu Lan (zh: 蕭毓蘭, pinyin: Xiāo Yùlán), a Tahitian-Chinese businessman and his wife Qiu Daitai (zh: 丘帶娣).[8][9] Her maternal grandparents were Fang Chih (zh: 方治, pinyin: Fāng Zhì), a Chinese diplomat and his wife Fang Ih-chi.[10][11] She is a matrilineal descendant of the Fang family of Tongcheng, Anhui, a Ming and Qing dynasty noble family notable for its many scholars and philosophers. She is an 18th generation descendant of Fang Bao, an influential Chinese poet who founded the Tongcheng School of literary prose popular throughout the Qing Empire.[12][13] Notable ancestors also include Fang Gongcheng, tutor of the imperial palace, and Fang Guancheng, Viceroy of Zhili seated at Tianjin from 1749 to 1768 amongst other Qing era scholars.[14][15]

By the time she was four years old, Sui knew she wanted to be a fashion designer. As a teen, she read an article in Life Magazine about a girl who graduated from Parsons design school in New York and then moved to Paris, where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton opened the girl a boutique. As Sui recalls, As a kid, you think 'wow', you’ve found the magic ticket...all you have to do was move to New York and go to Parsons.[16] Years later, when Sui went back and re-read the article, she realized the girl’s father was the legendary photographer, Irving Penn. Sui moved to New York and attended Parsons The New School for Design. [17]

Early career

Karlie Kloss poses on the runway at the Anna Sui show in September 2011.

After finishing her second year at Parsons, Sui was hired by juniors clothing label Charlie's Girls,[18] the first of several jobs where she learned by designing for sportswear labels and doing styling on the photography shoots of friend and former Parson's classmate Steven Meisel. During this time, she began designing and making clothes out of her apartment. While working for the sportswear company Glenora, she brought her collection of five pieces to a New York trade show, and caught the attention of a couple of New York department stores. A few weeks later, those clothes were featured in a New York Times advertisement.[19] The manager at Glenora, where Sui was still on the payroll, was furious when he saw the advertisement in the Times and fired her on the spot.

Left without a job, Sui took her $300 in savings and started a business out of a little corner in her apartment's living room.[20] For several years, Sui ran the company out of her apartment, doing odd-jobs for spare income and reinvesting every penny of earnings into her business. The 1980s was the height of power-dressing, with companies such as Chanel, Lacroix and Versace setting the standard. Sui struggled to stand up next to the big-name fashion houses. In 1991, Sui's supermodel friends Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista got together and encouraged her to try a runway show. Sui rented a small space in the Meatpacking District and paid the models by giving them the clothes. The successful show was the biggest breakthrough of Sui's career: That those beauties (Campbell and Evangelista) were then at the height of their fame helped stoke the reception Sui got from buyers and the news media.[21]

Anna Sui Line

Caroline Trentini for Anna Sui Spring/Summer 2011.

Sui's first runway show took place in 1991.[22] In 1992,[23] Sui opened her first retail location at 113 Greene Street in New York City's Soho District. The flagship store, with its red floors, antique black furniture, signature dolly head mannequins and its lavender walls which Anna painted herself,[24] became a staple of SOHO fashion and has guided the aesthetic of Anna Sui stores worldwide, evoking the Anna Sui brand and lifestyle, the stores have come to emphasize the epitome of culture in a continually shifting fashion world.[25]

From her first show, Sui was known for her light-hearted, whimsical, homemade and entertaining approach to showcasing her collections. The atmosphere often had a distinct party vibe and the antics of guests and participants were described as a distinct cultural scene of the period.[26]

In 1993, the Anna Sui Corporation opened a store in Hollywood at La Brea Avenue expanding coverage and controlling North American distribution.[27]

Anna Sui Shoes premiered on the runway for the fall collection in 1994. Manufactured in Venice, Italy, the shoe collection includes both day and evening styles, in velvet, silk, patent leather, snake and lizard skin, shearling and suede.

Global Expansion

Liu Wen on the runway at Anna Sui Fall/Winter 2010.

In 1997, the first freestanding Anna Sui boutiques opened in Tokyo and Osaka through a distribution and sales license with Isetan.[28] Sui also partnered with Italian shoemaker Ballin to create a shoe line.[29]

In 1999, Anna Sui launched her fragrance with Wella AG and cosmetic line with Albion.[30]

In 2003, the designer launched her Dolly Girl fragrance together with several limited edition sets in the Dolly Girl series.[31]

Sui partnered with Gonzo K.K. Studios to design costumes for the characters in their 2004 television series Gankutsuou: The Count of Monte Cristo, a series loosely based on The Count of Monte Cristo by French author Alexandre Dumas.[32]

In 2005, Sui was contracted by Samsung Electronics Co. in partnership with VOGUE to design a cellular telephone. The limited edition handset which was available through T-Mobile sold out in the first month with products occasionally coming for sale on eBay.[33][34] Sui described the phone as ...the most visible accessory and should be an extension of your personal style and essence...Anna Sui Mobile by Samsung reflects my favorite things purple, metallic black, a butterfly, glam rock, vintage-chic, all unmistakably Anna Sui.[35] Sui also partnered with Anthropologie to launch a fashion collection called Anna Sui for Anthropologie,[36] the collection remains ongoing.[37]

For the Hello Kitty 30th Anniversary in 2007, Sui partnered with the Japanese company to create a limited edition collection in tribute to the milestone. The stuffed animals from this collection sell for over $100.00 USD on Ebay.[38]

In 2006, Anna Sui launched a limited edition Anna Sui Boho Barbie in partnership with Mattel. She later launched a limited edition collection with Victoria's Secret called Anna Sui for Victoria's Secret.[39]

In 2008, Sui launched the Dolly Girl clothing collection in Japan to follow up on her previous fragrance lines. Sui's designs continue to attract many famous clients such as Blake Lively, Naomi Campbell, Sofia Coppola, Liv Tyler, and Courtney Love. Later in 2008, Sui partnered with Nissan to design a customized Nissan 350z called the Nissan 350z Anna Sui Limited Edition which was featured at various roadshows.

Specialized Collections

Jessica Stam walking the Anna Sui show in February 2009.

In 2009, Sui partnered with Target to produce a Gossip Girl inspired line combining Upper East Side style with a downtown edge called Anna Sui for Target. The limited edition collection was available for several weeks in September. A children’s line known as "Anna Sui Mini" debuted in early 2009 in Japan[40] and her Rock Me! fragrance launched later in the year.[41] She further entered into a distribution agreement with Mondottica Limited for eyewear distribution under the Anna Sui Eyewear brand[42] and launched a collaboration collection with Bliss called Anna Sui for FitFlop.[43]

Later in 2009, Sui was presented with the Classic Icon of Fashion Design award at the China Fashion Awards in Beijing and with the CFDA's Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in her native New York City.[44] At the award ceremony, Simon Doonan, Creative Director at Barneys New York said Anna Sui's award is so long overdue, she is a genius, if I was a girl I would be just Sui, Sui, Sui head to foot because I love what she does.[45]

In 2010, Sui collaborated with Andrew Bolton to publish her first book celebrating and chronicling her 20-year career.[46] The same year, she launched her Forbidden Affair fragrance.

In 2011, she partnered with Hush Puppies to create a limited edition shoe collection which debuted in the Fall 2011 fashion show. She went on to also partner with Tumi to create a line of suitcases and travel items.[47] Later in the year, Sui collaborated with Google to create a themed Google Chrome web browser extension.[48] She also entered into a fragrance license with InterParfums for fragrance and perfume distribution.[49]

In 2012, Sui collaborated with Coach and created Anna Sui for Coach, two limited edition handbags.[50]

From May to November 2013, clothing from Sui's 1999 and 2000 collections were featured at the The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology as a part of their RetroSpective: Fashion & Textile History Gallery exhibition.[51] In November Sui and Albion partnered with Asos to launch a Fall/Winter 2013 Anna Sui Cosmetics line in Europe. The series included holiday gift sets which featured a collaboration with Disney called the One Night Only Minnie Mouse Collection.[52]

On February 2, 2014, Lee Min-ho announced the Anna Sui for FILA collection on behalf of ANTA Sports Products Limited[53] and FILA which launched in 2015.[54][55] In April, Sui returned to her native Detroit to partner with the Ford Motor Company in creating the Mustang Unleashed Collection celebrating the 50 year anniversary of the Ford Mustang. Sui, who is fiercely proud of her hometown, said ...As a designer, I am constantly inspired by everything around me, but it is important for me to remain true to my aesthetic and identity. Mustang has accomplished the same.[56] Later in April, Sui and Hong Kong based I.T. Apparels Ltd partnered with Lab Made, a Hong Kong ice cream vendor famous for pioneering the obscure market of liquid nitrogen ice cream to create an Anna Sui x Lab Made Pop-up Store which was featured at the company's Tsimshatsui branch throughout April 2014. The collaboration also featured Sui's own flavor of purple ice cream and the opening was announced by Hong Kong celebrity Alfred Hui, a contract artist for Hong Kong's Television Broadcasts Limited.[57] In July, Sui launched a lingerie line in Korea with Alvin Korea Co. Ltd. which was launched with a full scale lingerie fashion show at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Seoul. Of her launch, Sui said Anna Sui fashion is ideal for lingerie because it's very girly, flirty and ultra feminine, but with a little touch of rock 'n' roll – a little bit of bad girl mixed in... there's a little bit of mystery behind it.[58] In October, Sui partnered with the CDFA to launch a collaboration with Best Buy called Anna Sui X Best Buy as a part of their designer's series.[59]

In March 2015, Sui and Isetan partnered with Sailor Moon to launch the Sailor Moon x Anna Sui collection which was featured at the Isetan store in Shinjuku.[60] Sui also partnered with French dessert maker Ladurée to create a collaboration called Anna Sui x Ladurée as a part of the Les Merveilleuses Ladurée collection.[61][62] In April 2015, Sui partnered with O'Neill to launch the collaborative collection titled Anna Sui for O'Neill, a collection inspired by the California beach scene.[63] Later, in June 2015, Sui relocated her Soho flagship store to Broome Street from its previous 23 year long location on Greene Street saying ...I will certainly be closer there to other stores that also suit my customer. The new location matches my sensibility and aesthetics much more. I have high hopes....[64] In August, Sui partnered with American boot-maker The Frye Company to launch a limited edition collection titled Anna Sui X Frye which expanded a previous collaboration between the two houses to develop boots for Sui's Fall/Winter 2015 fashion show. The collection was inspired by Nordic culture and History Channel's show Vikings. The designer commented on the collection saying The Frye Engineer Boot has always been my absolute favorite ... but they make so many other cool styles! It was a total dream to collaborate with them on boots for my Fall 2015 show... The fun part was customizing their classic shapes in an Anna Sui style!. Frye's Creative Director Michael Petry said of the collection: We are honored to partner again with Anna Sui, one of the great American designers.[65][66] In honor of Singapore's Golden Jubilee, Sui partnered with Uniform and Shentonista to create a commemorative SG50 tote featured in a blog series by Shentonista.[67] Later in November 2015, the Starbucks x Anna Sui collection was announced by Starbucks, a holiday collaboration between the coffeehouse and the fashion designer offering a selection of stylized coffee mugs and tote bags for the holiday period.[68][69]

Sui's clothing are featured in the upcoming Rolling Stones' EXHIBITIONISM exhibit documenting the life and times of the Rock 'n' Roll band at the Saatchi Gallery between April and September 2016.[70][71]

Reception

Karlie Kloss on the runway at the Anna Sui show in September 2011.

For her innovative work, Sui has been called a designer who never panders by The New York Times,[72] and earned the distinction of being named to Time magazine's list of the decade's top five fashion icons.[1] Sui's work has been extensively covered both by the journalist industry as a whole and by the fashion press in particular. Her seasonal shows are regularly covered by Vogue magazie, Style.com, Women's Wear Daily and a host of other news and editorial platforms. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week called Sui's career the a classic American success story, quoting Sui's determined attitude You have to focus on your dreams, even if they go beyond common sense. How could this young girl from the suburbs of Detroit become a success in New York? It was always that dream.[73] Reviews generally refer to the thoroughness of the designer's research and her tying together of various trends and topics both historical and current.

You can never tell if it’s for a good girl or a bad girl... I think that’s part of the appeal...
— Anna Sui, Detroit fashion designer Anna Sui recounts life at Penny Stamps Lecture, [74]

Charity and Community Involvement

Sasha Pivovarova at the Anna Sui show in February 2008.

In 1996, Sui partnered with General Motors Corporation as a part of the GM/CFDA Concept: Cure, a collaboration between General Motors and the Fashion industry bringing awareness to and raising funds for breast cancer. As a part of the program, Sui designed a GMC Yukon which was sold at silent auction to raise funds.[75]

Sui designs and manufactures her signature collection in her New York City headquarters on Fashion Avenue. In addition to her work as a designer, Sui has ardently fought to keep the industry alive and has spearheaded a campaign to "Save the Garment Center", which was highlighted during Fashion Week in September 2008.[76]

Following the 2008 Mumbai attacks, Sui put several of her designs up for auction on Ebay, donating the proceeds to Citizens for Justice and Peace, a Mumbai based civil-rights organization.[77]

In 2010, Sui partnered with Isetan and Bearbrick in a charity event benefitting the World Wildlife Foundation - Malaysia’s Forest Restoration and Orang-Utan Monitoring Project with proceeds from a limited edition collection going to the cause.[78]

In September 2014, in celebration of the 75th Anniversary of the Wizard of Oz, Warner Bros. and the Tonner Doll Company organized the creation of a collection of commemorative dolls designed by several famous American designers including Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Charlotte Ronson, Trina Turk and Sui. The collection of dolls was exhibited at the Fashion Institute of Technology and Bloomingdale's between September and October 2014 before being auctioned on eBay Giving Works with proceeds going to Habitat for Humanity's There's No Place Like Home Campaign.[79][80]

In June 2015, Sui partnered with New York restaurant Serendipity 3 in a charity fundraiser benefiting the Bowery Mission, a rescue mission and shelter in the Bowery area of Manhattan.[81]

Sui regularly gives lectures to students and around the United States in an effort to give back to the community and to inspire future generations to pursue their dreams. In October 2015, Sui spoke to local students about her experiences at the Michigan Theater in Ann Arbor as a part of the University of Michigan's Penny Stamps Speaker Series hosted by the Stamps School of Art and Design. Sui emphasized the need to not be intimidated by the industry which is sometimes described as cutthroat, even recounting her experiences from when she had been fired from a position at a sportswear company early in her career ...My boss told me I had to stop and I was like, I can’t stop, I have to ship my orders! And I got fired.... Following the lecture, some of Sui's designs went on display as part of the Detroit Historical Museum's Booth-Wilkinson Gallery exhibition Fashion D.Fined: The Past, Present and Future of Detroit Fashion.[82]

Works

Karmen Pedaru at the Anna Sui show in November 2011.

Perfumes and cosmetics

Sui introduced her fragrance and cosmetic line in 1999, to date the designer has launched 26 individual products with most coming in a variety of sizes.

  • The following is a list of Anna Sui's fragrance collections.
Year Fragrance Partner Notes
1999 Anna Sui Classic Wella AG
2002 Sui Love[83] Wella AG
2003 Dolly Girl Wella AG Part of the Dolly Girl Collection
2004 Dolly Girl Ooh La Love Wella AG Part of the Dolly Girl Collection
2005 Secret Wish Wella AG Part of the Secret Wish Collection
2006 Dolly Girl On The Beach Wella AG Part of the Dolly Girl Collection
2006 Secret Wish Magic Romance Wella AG Part of the Secret Wish Collection
2007 Dolly Girl Bonjour L'Amour Wella AG Part of the Dolly Girl Collection
2007 Flight Of Fancy Wella AG Part of the Fancy Collection
2008 Dolly Girl Lil` Starlet Wella AG Part of the Dolly Girl Collection
2008 Night of Fancy Wella AG Part of the Fancy Collection
2009 Live Your Dream Wella AG
2009 Rock Me! Wella AG Part of the Rock Me! Collection
2010 Forbidden Affair Wella AG
2010 Rock Me! Summer of Love Wella AG Part of the Rock Me! Collection
2012 Anna Sui Fairy Dance Secret Wish InterParfums Inc
2013 La Vie de Bohème[84] InterParfums Inc Part of the Bohème Collection
2013 Tin House Fairy Dance InterParfums Inc Part of the Tin House Collection
2013 Tin House Flight of Fancy InterParfums Inc Part of the Tin House Collection
2013 Tin House Forbidden Affair InterParfums Inc Part of the Tin House Collection
2013 Tin House Secret Wish InterParfums Inc Part of the Tin House Collection
2014 La Nuit de Bohème InterParfums Inc Part of the Bohème Collection
2014 La Nuit de Bohème Eau de Parfum[85] InterParfums Inc Part of the Bohème Collection
2014 Sui Dreams in Pink InterParfums Inc
2015 (September) Romantica[86] InterParfums Inc
2015 Sui Dreams in Green InterParfums Inc

Fashion collections

Sui has done 2 seasonal fashion shows every year since 1991 with the exception of the Spring/Summer 2002 show which she canceled in respect to the victims of the September 11 attacks on the Twin Towers.[29] In addition to the seasonal shows, Sui also has partnered with a variety of brands and companies such as Hush Puppies, Target Corporation, Ford Motor Company, Tumi, Isetan, FILA, O'Neill, Samsung, Mattel, Coach, T-Mobile, Victoria's Secret and VOGUE to produce limited edition collections.

  • The following is an incomplete list of the fashion shows/collections of Anna Sui

Published works

Literary

  • The following is an incomplete list of the literary works of Anna Sui
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Filmography

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In popular culture

Video/film and television appearances

During filming of Confessions of a Shopaholic in 2008, a faux Anna Sui store was mocked up inside the Hearst Tower for the movie set which also included mock up stores for Valentino, Catherine Malandrino and Alberta Ferretti. The stunt fooled some New Yorkers into believing actual stores had been opened.[112]

Year Title Role Notes
1994 Hi Octane[113] Herself (TV series) Episode 1.3
2008 Bravo A-List Awards[113] Herself (TV special)
2010 The City[113] Herself (TV show) Ep. Show 'Em What You Got
2010 America's Next Top Model[113] Herself (TV show) S14Ep11. America's Next Top Model Is...
2011 Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel[113] Herself (Documentary)
2012 Project Runway[113] Herself (TV show) S10Ep8. Starving artist
2011 Fashion News Live[113] Herself (TV show) S15Ep42
2013 Tumi Case Studies: Anna Sui[114] Herself (Short Series)
2014 Make It in America: Empowering Global Fashion[113] Herself (Documentary)

References

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See also

External links

References

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  14. ↑ 參考書目[编辑]
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  101. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  102. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  103. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  104. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  105. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  106. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  107. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  108. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  109. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  110. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  111. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  112. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  113. ↑ 113.0 113.1 113.2 113.3 113.4 113.5 113.6 113.7 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  114. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  115. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.

Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.

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