Hoppin' John

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Hoppin' John
Hoppin-john-bowl.JPG
Origin
Place of origin Southern United States
Region or state North America
Details
Course served Meal
Main ingredient(s) black-eyed peas (or field peas) and rice, chopped onion, sliced bacon
Variations substitute ham hock, fatback, or country sausage for the conventional bacon, or smoked turkey parts as a pork alternative.

Hoppin' John is a peas and rice dish served in the Southern United States. It is made with black-eyed peas (or field peas) and rice, chopped onion, sliced bacon, and seasoned with salt.[1] Some people substitute ham hock, fatback, or country sausage for conventional bacon; additionally, a popular and healthy modern alternative to pork is the use of smoked turkey parts. A few use green peppers or vinegar and spices. Smaller than black-eyed peas, field peas are used in the Low Country of South Carolina and Georgia; black-eyed peas are the norm elsewhere.

In the southern United States, eating Hoppin' John on New Year's Day is thought to bring a prosperous year filled with luck.[2][3] The peas are symbolic of pennies or coins, and a coin is sometimes added to the pot or left under the dinner bowls.[4] Collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, chard, kale, cabbage etc. along with this dish are supposed to also add to the wealth since they are the color of American currency.[5] Another traditional food, cornbread, can also be served to represent wealth, being the color of gold. On the day after New Year's Day, leftover "Hoppin' John" is called "Skippin' Jenny," and further demonstrates one's frugality, bringing a hope for an even better chance of prosperity in the New Year.[6]

Etymology

File:Hoppin' John peas&rice.JPG
Hoppin' John - black-eyed peas and rice, a food of the Southern US

The origins of the name are uncertain; one possibility is that the name is a corruption of the Haitian Creole term for black-eyed peas: pois pigeons (pronounced: [pwapiˈʒɔ̃]).

The Oxford English Dictionary's first reference to the dish is from Frederick Law Olmsted's 19th century travelogue, A Journey in the Seaboard Slave States (1861).[7] However, a recipe for "Hopping John" in The Carolina Housewife by Sarah Rutledge,[8] which was published in 1847, is also cited as the earliest reference.[9] An even earlier source is Recollections of a Southern Matron,[10] which mentions "Hopping John" (defined, in a note, as "bacon and rice") as early as 1838.[11]

History

Hoppin' John was originally a Low Country food before spreading to the entire population of the South. Hoppin' John may have evolved from rice and bean mixtures that were the subsistence of enslaved West Africans en route to the Americas.[12] Hoppin' John has been further traced to similar foods in West Africa,[9] in particular the Senegalese dish, thiebou niebe.[13]

One tradition common in the U.S. is that each person at the meal should leave three peas on their plate to ensure that the New Year will be filled with luck, fortune and romance. Another tradition holds that counting the number of peas in a serving predicts the amount of luck (or wealth) that the diner will have in the coming year. On Sapelo Island in the community of Hog Hammock, Geechee red peas are used instead of black-eyed peas. Sea Island red peas are similar.[14]

The chef Sean Brock claims that traditional Hoppin' John was made with the once-thought-extinct Carolina gold rice and Sea Island red peas. However, there are currently a number of Carolina gold rice growers who offer the product for sale in limited distribution.[15]

Variants

Other bean and rice dishes are seen throughout the American South and the Caribbean, and are often associated with Africans in the Americas. Regional variants include the Guyanese dish "cook-up rice", which uses black-eyed peas and coconut milk; "Hoppin' Juan," which substitutes Cuban black beans for black-eyed peas; the Peruvian tacu-tacu; and the Brazilian dish feijoada, which also uses black beans instead of black-eyed peas.

See also

References

  1. Hoppin John What's cooking America.Another name for it is Stew Peas
  2. "On New Year's Day, it gets the full Southern treatment, which usually means Hoppin' John – a traditional Soul Food fixin' consisting of F peas cooked with ham hocks and spices, served over rice. In the South, eating field-peas on New Year's is thought to bring prosperity" Celebrate New Year's with Field- peas by Rachel Ellner December 31, 2008 Nashua Telegraph
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  4. "'Eat poor on New Year's, and eat fat the rest of the year,' echoed the refrain...A shiny dime is often thrown into the Hoppin' John cooking pot, and the person getting the dime in their bowl is due an extra portion of good luck." Field Peas: New Year's good-luck foods by Mick Vann December 26, 2008 Food section Austin Chronicle
  5. "Collard greens (or kale, chard, mustard, or turnip greens) symbolize money in the South" Beyond Field - Peas: New Year's good-luck foods by Mick Vann December 26, 2008 Food section Austin Chronicle
  6. "On the day after New Year's Day, leftover "Hoppin' John" becomes "Skippin' Jenny," and eating it demonstrates powerful frugality, bringing one even better chances of prosperity." Beyond Black-Eyed Peas: New Year's good-luck foods by Mick Vann December 26, 2008 Food section Austin Chronicle
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  14. The pea that could; Geechee red peas from Sapelo Island offer new hope for a community by John T. Edge January 2014 Southern Living page 62
  15. Charlie Rose Interview, Episode 129, Season 20

External links