Eight-thousander

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Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu and Mount Everest as seen from the International Space Station
Flight over Khumbu-region; six eight-thousanders and some seven-thousanders (three identified) are visible
Graph of the 30 highest peaks with more than 500 m prominence

The eight-thousanders are the 14 independent[1] mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) high above sea level. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia. Their summits are in the death zone.

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt was unsuccessful when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.[2]

The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.[3]

The first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian Reinhold Messner, who completed this feat on 16 October 1986. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat. Messner summitted each of the 14 peaks without the aid of supplemental oxygen. This feat was not repeated until nine years later by the Swiss Erhard Loretan in 1995. Phurba Tashi of Nepal has completed the most climbs of the eight-thousanders, with 30 ascents between 1998 and 2011.[4] Juanito Oiarzabal has completed the second most, with a total of 25 ascents between 1985 and 2011.[5] The alpinists with the highest number of winter ascents are Jerzy Kukuczka and the Italian Simone Moro, both with four peaks (K2 has never been summited in the winter).[6]

The first woman who summited all 14 eight-thousanders with no disputed climbing was the Spanish Edurne Pasaban, in 2010.[7] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[8][9]

The countries with the highest number of climbers that have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders are Italy and South Korea, with five climbers each, followed by Spain, with four climbers. Kazakhstan and Poland have three climbers each that completed the "Crown of the Himalaya".

List of eight-thousanders

Peak Height[10] Location[10] First ascent[10] First summiter(s)[10] First ascent in winter First summiter(s) in winter Ascents[11] Deaths[11] Death rate[11] Death rate before 1990[12] (graph) Death rate 1990–2003[12] (graph, change)
Everest 8848 m
29,029 ft		 Nepal Nepal
China China		 29 May 1953 New Zealand Edmund Hillary
Nepal Tenzing Norgay		 17 Feb 1980
 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Poland Leszek Cichy		 5656 223 4.0% 37% 4.4%
K2 8611 m
28,251 ft		 Pakistan Pakistan
China China[13][14][15][16][17][18]		 31 Jul 1954 Italy Achille Compagnoni
Italy Lino Lacedelli		 306 81 29.5% 41% 19.7%
Kangchenjunga 8586 m
28,169 ft		 Nepal Nepal
India India[19]		 25 May 1955 United Kingdom George Band
United Kingdom Joe Brown		 11 Jan 1986 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka		 283 40 14.5% 21% 22.0%
Lhotse 8516 m
27,940 ft		 Nepal Nepal
China China		 18 May 1956 Switzerland Fritz Luchsinger
Switzerland Ernst Reiss		 31 Dec 1988 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki 461 13 2.8% 14% 2.0%
Makalu 8485 m
27,838 ft		 Nepal Nepal
China China		 15 May 1955 France Jean Couzy
France Lionel Terray		 9 Feb 2009 Italy Simone Moro
Kazakhstan Denis Urubko		 361 31 8.9% 16% 8.5%
Cho Oyu 8201 m
26,906 ft		 Nepal Nepal
China China		 19 Oct 1954 Austria Joseph Joechler
Nepal Pasang Dawa Lama
Austria Herbert Tichy		 12 Feb 1985 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Maciej Pawlikowski		 3138 44 1.4%
Dhaulagiri I 8167 m
26,795 ft		 Nepal Nepal 13 May 1960 Austria Kurt Diemberger
Germany Peter Diener
Nepal Nawang Dorje
Nepal Nima Dorje
Switzerland Ernst Forrer
Austria Albin Schelbert		 21 Jan 1985 Poland Andrzej Czok
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka		 448 69 15.7% 31% 11.0%
Manaslu 8163 m
26,781 ft		 Nepal Nepal 9 May 1956 Japan Toshio Imanishi
Nepal Gyalzen Norbu		 12 Jan 1984 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Ryszard Gajewski		 661 65 9.9% 35% 13.4%
Nanga Parbat 8126 m
26,660 ft		 Pakistan Pakistan 3 Jul 1953 Austria Hermann Buhl 26 Feb 2016 Italy Simone Moro
Pakistan Muhammad Ali Sadpara
Spain Alex Txikon		 335 68 20.7% 77% 5.5%
Annapurna I 8091 m
26,545 ft		 Nepal Nepal 3 Jun 1950 France Maurice Herzog
France Louis Lachenal		 3 Feb 1987 Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
Poland Artur Hajzer		 191 61 33.5% 66% 19.7%
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)		 8080 m
26,444 ft		 Pakistan Pakistan
China China		 5 Jul 1958 United States Andrew Kauffman
United States Pete Schoening		 9 Mar 2012 Poland Adam Bielecki
Poland Janusz Gołąb		 334 29 8.9% 16% 8.8%
Broad Peak 8051 m
26,414 ft		 Pakistan Pakistan
China China		 9 Jun 1957 Austria Fritz Wintersteller
Austria Marcus Schmuck
Austria Kurt Diemberger
Austria Hermann Buhl
 5 Mar 2013 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Adam Bielecki
Poland Tomasz Kowalski
Poland Artur Małek		 404 21 5.3% 5% 8.6%
Gasherbrum II 8035 m
26,362 ft		 Pakistan Pakistan
China China		 7 Jul 1956 Austria Fritz Moravec
Austria Josef Larch
Austria Hans Willenpart		 2 Feb 2011 Italy Simone Moro
Kazakhstan Denis Urubko
United States Cory Richards		 930 21 2.3% 8% 0.4%
Shishapangma 8027 m
26,335 ft		 China China 2 May 1964 China Hsu Ching (zh)
China Chang Chun-yen
China Wang Fuzhou
China Chen San
China Cheng Tien-liang
China Wu Tsung-yue
China Sodnam Doji
China Migmar Trashi
China Doji
China Yonten		 14 Jan 2005 Poland Piotr Morawski
Italy Simone Moro		 302 25 8.4% 2% 16.8%

Climbers with verified ascents of all 14 eight-thousanders

Field O2 lists people who have climbed all 14 without bottled oxygen.

Order
accomplished

[20]

 All without
O2 (order)		 Name Period Born Age Nationality
1 1 Reinhold Messner 1970–1986 1944 42 Italy Italian
2 Jerzy Kukuczka 1979–1987 (deceased) 1948 39 Poland Polish
3 2 Erhard Loretan 1982–1995 (deceased) 1959 36 Switzerland Swiss
4 [21] Carlos Carsolio 1985–1996 1962 33 Mexico Mexican
5 Krzysztof Wielicki 1980–1996 1950 46 Poland Polish
6 3 Juanito Oiarzabal 1985–1999 1956 43 Spain Spanish
7 Sergio Martini 1983–2000 1949 51 Italy Italian
8 Young-Seok Park 1993–2001 (deceased)[22] 1963 38 South Korea Korean
9 Hong-Gil Um 1988–2001 1960[23] 40 South Korea Korean
10 4 Alberto Iñurrategi 1991-2002[24] 1968 33 Spain Spanish
11 Wang-Yong Han 1994–2003 1966 37 South Korea Korean
12 5[25] Ed Viesturs 1989–2005 1959 46 United States American
13 6[26][27][28] Silvio Mondinelli 1993–2007 1958 49 Italy Italian
14 7[29] Ivan Vallejo 1997–2008 1959 49 Ecuador Ecuadorian
15 8[30] Denis Urubko 2000–2009 1973 35 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
16 Ralf Dujmovits 1990–2009 1961[31] 47 Germany German
17 9 Veikka Gustafsson 1993–2009 1968 41 Finland Finnish
18[32] Andrew Lock 1993–2009 1961[33] 48 Australia Australian
19 10 João Garcia 1993–2010 1967 43 Portugal Portuguese
20[34] Piotr Pustelnik 1990–2010 1951 58 Poland Polish
21[35] Edurne Pasaban 2001–2010 1973 36 Spain Spanish
22[36] Abele Blanc 1992–2011[37][38] 1954 56 Italy Italian
23 Mingma Sherpa 2000–2011[37] 1978 33 Nepal Nepali
24 11 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner 1998–2011[37] 1970 40 Austria Austrian
25 Vassily Pivtsov 2001–2011[37] 1975 36 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
26 12 Maxut Zhumayev 2001–2011[37] 1977 34 Kazakhstan Kazakhstani
27 Jae-Soo Kim 2000–2011[37] 1961 50 South Korea Korean
28[39] 13 Mario Panzeri 1988–2012 1964 48 Italy Italian
29[40] Hirotaka Takeuchi 1995–2012[40] 1971 41 Japan Japanese
30 Chhang Dawa Sherpa 2001–2013[37] 1982 30 Nepal Nepali
31 14 Kim Chang-Ho 2005–2013[37] 1970 43 South Korea Korean
32 Jorge Egocheaga 2002–2014[41] 1968 45 Spain Spanish
33 15 Radek Jaroš 1998–2014[37] 1964 50 Czech Republic Czech

Disputed

Claims in which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascents of all 14 peaks. The disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses.

Name Period Born Age Nationality
Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997)[42] 1983–1998 1952 46 Italy Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[43][44] 1987–2005 1954 53 United Kingdom British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma 2000,Broad Peak 1995[45][46])[47][48] 1993–2004 (deceased) 1953 49 Ukraine Ukrainian
Eun-Sun Oh (Kangchenjunga 2009)[49][50][51][52] 1997–2010 1966 44 South Korea Korean
Carlos Pauner (Shishapangma 2012)[53] 2001–2013 1963 50 Spain Spanish

Image gallery

Comparison of the heights of the Eight-thousanders (red triangles) with the Seven Summits and Seven Second Summits.

See also

References

  1. ↑ In making any "highest mountains" list, one needs to use a criterion to exclude subpeaks and only list independent mountains. There is no universally agreed-upon such criterion. However the (generally accepted) list of 14 eight-thousanders is obtained if one uses a topographic prominence cutoff of between 200 and 500 metres (610 and 1524 feet). Some eight-thousand metre subpeaks have been climbed as goals in themselves, for example Lhotse Middle, but this is quite rare.
  2. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  3. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  4. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  5. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  6. ↑ Planetmountain.com, Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, 26 February 2016
  7. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  8. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  9. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  10. ↑ 10.0 10.1 10.2 10.3
    Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  11. ↑ 11.0 11.1 11.2 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  12. ↑ 12.0 12.1 Chinese National Geography, August 2006, page 77.
  13. ↑ http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-28500721 K2 lies in Pakistan, near the northern border with China.
  14. ↑ Pakistan-China border agreement
  15. ↑ K2, China/Pakistan
  16. ↑ K2: Some background and History
  17. ↑ Encyclopædia Britannica
  18. ↑ K2
  19. ↑ https://www.theguardian.com/world/2000/jul/13/lukeharding
  20. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  21. ↑ Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.
  22. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  23. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  24. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  25. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  26. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  27. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  28. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  29. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  30. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  31. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  32. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  33. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  34. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  35. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  36. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  37. ↑ 37.0 37.1 37.2 37.3 37.4 37.5 37.6 37.7 37.8 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  38. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  39. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  40. ↑ 40.0 40.1 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  41. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  42. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  43. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  44. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  45. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  46. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  47. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  48. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  49. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  50. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  51. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  52. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  53. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.

External links

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